I was going to take a twilight walk along the beach in Montevideo this evening, but was caught up in a parade instead. Here are some photos and videos.
I did a little research to discover that today, December 3 is the international day of Uruguayan Candombe, which is also a “warm-up” part of Carnaval in Uruguay – they start Carnival early here and have events throughout January, February, and March, with different timing in different towns in Uruguay. In fact, the Carnaval of Uruguay is the longest Carnaval in the world, lasting over 40 days. As stated, the December 3rd day of Candombe is one of the warm-up events for Carnaval, but there are also two days of Candombe – the main days of Candombe – in February as well.
The following information is mostly taken from Welcome Uruguay, and I thank them for it – the concepts and structure is theirs, but with my editing:
The (February) parade features Las Llamadas showing off along the mythical 18 de Julio Avenue of Montevideo. The December 3rd parade, I believe, is on another street (I’ll have to walk back to see its name).
This ancestral way of gathering was used by African immigrants to Uruguay to find one another during the Carnaval – and now has become a legitimate part of Carnaval, featuring an identification and customary stamp using “the call and reply” of small drums. The celebration is now fairly popular, and this coming year, just like decades ago, will be held in the neighborhoods Sur and Palermo, in Montevideo.
Las Llamadas (the calls) derive from the calls made by those African immigrants when they began to gather, whether to celebrate or to deal with certain social issues. Each group used to have a couple of drums and get out into the streets playing the candombe in order to get the big group together to celebrate Carnaval.
The immigrants had been part of the Montevideo Carnaval for a very long time, though they generally could not officially participate in the celebrations. Therefore, they would celebrate among themselves, singing and dancing along the very same streets where most of them lived.
Today, nobody speaks about black and white people any more. Everybody speaks about murguistas, comparsistas and carnavaleros -basically carnival people- and many of them repeat a true tribute to their ancestors every year in the Sur and Palermo neighborhoods.
These celebrations began in 1956 and ever since they have become a classic cultural event in the City of Montevideo. They have now also began to be celebrated in other Uruguayan towns with carnival blood.
Las Llamadas consists of a parade in which men, women and children of all ages take part. They tour around thousands of meters in the company of a lively audience that dances to the rhythm of candombe and its drums along with the protagonists.
The comparsas are led by the estandartes (banners) representative of each group, an emblem that distinguishes them from the rest. You’ll see the Nigerian estandarte in my photos and video, for example, which represents a set of African immigrants from Nigeria to Uruguay.
Then the flags arrive, followed by a set of fantasy devices made up by moons, stars and lights carried by masked young people. These icons refer to the Islam, the religion most of the African slaves practiced before they were brought to the Río de la Plata.
Then, the gramillero appears. It is the eldest man in the comparsa and he generally wears a thick white beard that evidences his age. However, his devilish dance shows the audience an overwhelming youth accompanied by his dancing partner, the Mamá Vieja (Old Mamma) or Abuela (Grandma), a black old woman who moves her hips as if she was just a teenager.
Behind them, there comes the Escobero (broom man), who is in charge of sweeping all the negative waves and the bad weeds the street may be covered with. He leads the group of dancers and the drummers line-up, formed by the musicians of each group who play their rhythm and set the steps and movements for all the members of the comparsa.
